Entry #2 from Capetown - today is my last day here. I am sad because I have had some amazing times here but I am more excited because, after 10 days, I am ready for what's next. And, lucky for me, what's next happens to be a three-week overland camping trip through Namibia, Botswana, and ending in Victoria Falls.
I have to say, things worked out fatefully well with my itinerary. By the time I was mid-way through the Garden Route, I was so ready for a big city. Then I arrived in Capetown and proceeded to party ever night for one week straight, go on a shopping spree and charge almost $500 to my credit card. In my 11 days here, I have seen every single sight, done (almost) every single activity that the Mother City has to offer. And I must say - she has been good to me. I have some great memories from my time here. But now, 11 days later, I am ready to blow this popsicle stand! Now I could not be more ready to get back into "real" Africa, be in the wild and in the boonies, camp! And, apropos as it is, that is what comes next for me.
The days are rolling by and I am so so happy, so relaxed. I have been traveling for approximately 40 days now and there has rarely been a dull moment. Overall, my times alone have been cherished because I am so often with another traveler. I am so excited, wonderous, and brave. I am so thankful for this experience, for the amazing blessings that have marked my journey thus far. On my last day in Capetown and I have been safe and healthy the whole way through. I feel that God, or some greater force, must be looking out for me, protecting me. Who knows, maybe I am creating it for myself out of my own intentionality to be safe. Either way, I feel for the first time this year that I am exactly where I am supposed to be, I am exactly the person I want to be. I have been groping so long to find this feeling, and to finally possess it makes me feel so incredibly fulfilled and free. Every day is the best day of my life. How could it not be? The world is at my fingertips... literally.
I am breaking so many outdated beliefs that I created about myself years ago - I am not an outdoors person, I get homesick, I am a spoiled brat, I can't do it on my own. Well guess what, I was wrong. Maybe not wrong, per se, but I had been continuing to idnetify myself out of an identity that had been created by a child, as if it were steadfast and true. So I was a 10 year old girl whose sleeping bag got rained on at horse back riding camp and I had one of the most miserable nights of my life. Who wouldn't have been miserable under those conditions? But I created from that that I wasn't "outdoorsy," and I have operated ever since as if it were true. Sure, I may be a fair-weather camper, but who isn't? Who wants to go camping in a hail storm? Now I find myself on the brink of a three-week camping trip through Southern Africa and I ask myself, if I am not an outdoorsy person, to do this, then I don't know what I am.
Of course, this is only one example of the ways that I find myself constantly recreating myself, redefining myself and my sense of self-identity here. I am no longer constrained by my past configuarations, limitations of self. Every moment is generative, an opportunity to create myself anew.
xoxo,
Sara
Saturday, April 26, 2008
Wednesday, April 23, 2008
Shark Diving, etc.
Hello!
Another post from Capetown, where I have been for the past 8 days. The "Mother City" has certainly been keeping my wallet well-exercised with her adventure activities, tours, shops, markets, and late night parties. I have been busy every day with a different activity... as I sit here writing this I am seasick from the constant feeling of sea swells rocking the floor of the internet cafe. I have been on a boat all day on a Great White Shark cage diving expedition (sorry mom), which I was talked into late yesterday afternoon by another new San Franciscan friend. It was a "once in a lifetime opportunity," as is everything here....
I was pretty nervous all morning and even got away without signing the indemnity form as there was a part of me that seriously believed today I could get eaten by a shark and die, or even by a "freak wave" which capsized a boat in the same waters last week and killed two American and one Norweigan tourist. There was a memorial at the dock and it was quite a sad sight. As luck would have it, I made it out alive and am here to tell the tale.
The swells were really big in the morning and I was sedated from a dramamine as we motored out into the shark-infested waters. We sat for a while with our chum bait of 6 tuna heads tied to the end of a rope, and watched as the boat of the nearest tour operator seemed to be drawing in shark after shark. The tourists shouts of excitement echoed over to us and we looked over anxiously. Finally the first couple of sharks surfaced to pursue our bait and the view from the boat was amazing, if even better than from the water, due to the mediocre visibility. The first group of 5 jumped into the cage and waited for 30 minutes in the frigid Capetownian waters for a shark, but only had one distant sighting before being called out.
I, of course, fell asleep in my wetsuit, curled up in fetal position on top of the cooler in a seasick and dramamine-induced stupor, keeping the rest of the passengers fairly dehydrated for lack of access to the boat's stash of refreshments. I wish I could say it was a more badass experience than this, and it is, mildly.
At the last possible round of diving, Lisako (my new friend) and I jumped into the cage and, thanks to a fresh batch of tuna heads, got three amazing sightings of the biggest sharks of the day - a female at least 12 feet long. After the initial adrenaline rush kicked in, the temperature of the water had left my mind completely, although my entire body was shaking from the cold. I waited an additional 20 minutes in the cage, but our initial sightings proved to be the last ones of the day. Cold and satisfied, I changed back into my warm clothes.
It was a great day and although I am exhausted and completely woozy now, I faced the infamous Great Whites of the Southern Cape and was surprisingly (or maybe not so surprisingly) more phased by the cold water than the beasts themselves.
Either way, I got some great pictures, and intend to post them soon.
Sorry mom! I wanted to make sure I made it out alive before telling you...
Another post from Capetown, where I have been for the past 8 days. The "Mother City" has certainly been keeping my wallet well-exercised with her adventure activities, tours, shops, markets, and late night parties. I have been busy every day with a different activity... as I sit here writing this I am seasick from the constant feeling of sea swells rocking the floor of the internet cafe. I have been on a boat all day on a Great White Shark cage diving expedition (sorry mom), which I was talked into late yesterday afternoon by another new San Franciscan friend. It was a "once in a lifetime opportunity," as is everything here....
I was pretty nervous all morning and even got away without signing the indemnity form as there was a part of me that seriously believed today I could get eaten by a shark and die, or even by a "freak wave" which capsized a boat in the same waters last week and killed two American and one Norweigan tourist. There was a memorial at the dock and it was quite a sad sight. As luck would have it, I made it out alive and am here to tell the tale.
The swells were really big in the morning and I was sedated from a dramamine as we motored out into the shark-infested waters. We sat for a while with our chum bait of 6 tuna heads tied to the end of a rope, and watched as the boat of the nearest tour operator seemed to be drawing in shark after shark. The tourists shouts of excitement echoed over to us and we looked over anxiously. Finally the first couple of sharks surfaced to pursue our bait and the view from the boat was amazing, if even better than from the water, due to the mediocre visibility. The first group of 5 jumped into the cage and waited for 30 minutes in the frigid Capetownian waters for a shark, but only had one distant sighting before being called out.
I, of course, fell asleep in my wetsuit, curled up in fetal position on top of the cooler in a seasick and dramamine-induced stupor, keeping the rest of the passengers fairly dehydrated for lack of access to the boat's stash of refreshments. I wish I could say it was a more badass experience than this, and it is, mildly.
At the last possible round of diving, Lisako (my new friend) and I jumped into the cage and, thanks to a fresh batch of tuna heads, got three amazing sightings of the biggest sharks of the day - a female at least 12 feet long. After the initial adrenaline rush kicked in, the temperature of the water had left my mind completely, although my entire body was shaking from the cold. I waited an additional 20 minutes in the cage, but our initial sightings proved to be the last ones of the day. Cold and satisfied, I changed back into my warm clothes.
It was a great day and although I am exhausted and completely woozy now, I faced the infamous Great Whites of the Southern Cape and was surprisingly (or maybe not so surprisingly) more phased by the cold water than the beasts themselves.
Either way, I got some great pictures, and intend to post them soon.
Sorry mom! I wanted to make sure I made it out alive before telling you...
Sunday, April 20, 2008
Friday, April 18, 2008
Capetown
Hi from Capetown! I am writing from an internet cafe that doubles as a barbershop. Only in Africa...
I arrived here three days ago and have been having a blast. The morning before I caught the bus to Capetown, I went on a kloofing expedition - also known as canyoning - which basically involves hiking and swimming through a river canyon/ravine. It was beautiful but I was freezing cold, and couldn't help thinking that I am temporarily maxed out on outdoor adventure excursions and ready for some big city action.
Getting to Capetown after having spent a month in tribal village huts and tiny beach towns was definitely a shock to the system. I haven't been in a big city since my plane arrived in Johannesburg, and suffice to say, I didn't exactly venture out to see what it was all about. Luckily it didn't take long for me to tap into my city girl roots, and in no time I was doing some considerable damage at the local shops and bars.
It is great to see my brother again. University of Capetown is absolutely stunning - Ivy-flanked stone buildings set to the beautiful backdrop of Table Mountain. I enjoyed seeing David's new South African haunts, his house, and meeting his friends. Over the next couple of days we are taking a tour of the nearby winelands, visiting the city's best beaches, and venturing out to Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for many years.
I just booked the next big chapter of my "Africa quest" - a 3-week overland camping tour through Namibia, Botswana, and Zambia, embarking from Capetown on Sunday the 27th and ending in Victoria Falls on May 16th. I met a girl from San Francisco at one of my hostels on the Garden Route, and she happens to be going on my same trip, so I am excited to have a friend in the group.
I still have more than a week in Capetown though, and I plan on making the most of it!
More soon...
I arrived here three days ago and have been having a blast. The morning before I caught the bus to Capetown, I went on a kloofing expedition - also known as canyoning - which basically involves hiking and swimming through a river canyon/ravine. It was beautiful but I was freezing cold, and couldn't help thinking that I am temporarily maxed out on outdoor adventure excursions and ready for some big city action.
Getting to Capetown after having spent a month in tribal village huts and tiny beach towns was definitely a shock to the system. I haven't been in a big city since my plane arrived in Johannesburg, and suffice to say, I didn't exactly venture out to see what it was all about. Luckily it didn't take long for me to tap into my city girl roots, and in no time I was doing some considerable damage at the local shops and bars.
It is great to see my brother again. University of Capetown is absolutely stunning - Ivy-flanked stone buildings set to the beautiful backdrop of Table Mountain. I enjoyed seeing David's new South African haunts, his house, and meeting his friends. Over the next couple of days we are taking a tour of the nearby winelands, visiting the city's best beaches, and venturing out to Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for many years.
I just booked the next big chapter of my "Africa quest" - a 3-week overland camping tour through Namibia, Botswana, and Zambia, embarking from Capetown on Sunday the 27th and ending in Victoria Falls on May 16th. I met a girl from San Francisco at one of my hostels on the Garden Route, and she happens to be going on my same trip, so I am excited to have a friend in the group.
I still have more than a week in Capetown though, and I plan on making the most of it!
More soon...
Sunday, April 13, 2008
Recent updates
Being back on the coast of South Africa has been great, things seem to be getting progressively more civilized the closer I get to Capetown. Coffee Bay was definitely the highlight, with cheap and delicious meals, free surf lessons every morning, and all kinds of fun hikes, tours, people, and parties. From there I stopped in Cintsa, known for Buccaneers' Backpackers, considered the best in South Africa. Although it is mid-autumn here and bordering on the off-season for tourism, I enjoyed the low-key scene in Cintsa, bought some beaded jewelry from the local ladies (lovingly referred to as the "mama's"), hung out on the beach, and got a full body massage for about $15. Life is tough...
From there I moved west into SA's popular tourist scene, the Garden Route. I started at a place called Plettenberg Bay, where I hitched a ride with a Dutch couple to "Monkeyland" - think Sea World for monkeys with no cages. I left Plett early because it was pretty boring compared to the places I have been, and moved on to the next stop on the Garden Route, Knysna, where I am writing from now.
Yesterday i went to the Knysna Elephant Sanctuary and paid about 30 dollars to stand around taking pictures with elephants, but I'm not complaining because I got some amazing pictures. Today i went on a ferry to a nature reserve called Featherbed where we took a jeep ride up to the top then hiked 2.5 kms down then took the ferry back. it was fun except the other tour-goers were a 30 person 8th grade class from London and a bunch of toddlers. Things are getting pretty touristy here.
Surprisingly, this has also been one of the loneliest stretches of my trip thus far. My past two hostels have been completely empty, as in, I have a 12 person dorm entirely to myself. So i have been doing these tours alone, which is fine, but definitely kind of an ironic change considering that the most civilized place I've been has proven one of the most difficult to make friends.
I'm not too worried about it... i'll be in capetown in three days. I'm ready for it!
From there I moved west into SA's popular tourist scene, the Garden Route. I started at a place called Plettenberg Bay, where I hitched a ride with a Dutch couple to "Monkeyland" - think Sea World for monkeys with no cages. I left Plett early because it was pretty boring compared to the places I have been, and moved on to the next stop on the Garden Route, Knysna, where I am writing from now.
Yesterday i went to the Knysna Elephant Sanctuary and paid about 30 dollars to stand around taking pictures with elephants, but I'm not complaining because I got some amazing pictures. Today i went on a ferry to a nature reserve called Featherbed where we took a jeep ride up to the top then hiked 2.5 kms down then took the ferry back. it was fun except the other tour-goers were a 30 person 8th grade class from London and a bunch of toddlers. Things are getting pretty touristy here.
Surprisingly, this has also been one of the loneliest stretches of my trip thus far. My past two hostels have been completely empty, as in, I have a 12 person dorm entirely to myself. So i have been doing these tours alone, which is fine, but definitely kind of an ironic change considering that the most civilized place I've been has proven one of the most difficult to make friends.
I'm not too worried about it... i'll be in capetown in three days. I'm ready for it!
Friday, April 11, 2008
Pictures
Africa Album #1 is up (my first week in Africa)! Check it out at:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2150039&l=644fc&id=616632
Africa Album #2: Mozambique
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2150041&l=75411&id=616632
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2150039&l=644fc&id=616632
Africa Album #2: Mozambique
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2150041&l=75411&id=616632
Sunday, April 6, 2008
Coffee Bay
Wow,
Almost a full week without internet access... I almost couldn't take it. The African internet cafe lady just called me a computer nerd, and I think she may be right.
I finished my pony trek in Lesotho yesterday and it was incredible. Lesotho is gorgeous and the people are really nice. I opted for a 3-day, 2-night trek, we went all though a green mountain valley and swam in a waterfall. It was also one of my first opportunities to get a glimpse into rural (traditional) African life. I took a bunch of photos of the local children at the tribal village where I slept, and the concept of being able to see their own image on the camera completely confounded them. Besides never having seen a camera, few of these kids have even seen their own reflection in the mirror. I have been told many times that it is important not to give the kids money or candy, instead donate to a local charity or give them fruit, or something else that won't rot their teeth. I gave them pieces of bread with peanut butter, which made me feel like a very culturally responsible tourist.
I got a ride back to the capital of Lesotho with a 12-person Australian missionary group, then bought a traditional Basotho blanket on my way out the border, where the cab driver walked me all the way to the border and helped me find a ride to Bloemfontein. The woman was a South African nurse, trying to save money on petrol. Interesting enough, until she almost falls asleep at the wheel and decides she needs to take a 30 minute nap on the side of the road before continuing on. This was a fairly awkward (not to mention potentially dangerous) situation, but luckily we made it to the bus station just fine.
So last night I was at the bus station from for 5 hours waiting for the overnight bus from Bloemfontein to East London, a couple of people were harassing me so a German lady let me sleep in her dried fruit store. I bought a ton of it, thrilled that dried fruit is my perfect loophole in the rules of giving responsibly to the local kids.
I slept like a baby on the overnight bus thanks to my new Basotho blanket. When we arrived in East London, the driver took the entire Greyhound to the minibus taxi stand so I wouldn't walk across town alone at 7:30 in the morning. I guess that's when it really hit me, this place is not safe. Just the reactions of the locals on the bus made me realize that, although this seems in many ways like a first world country, the crime rate is incredibly high here - and I make a obvious target.
Anyways, after almost 24 hours of travel, I have arrived safely at my hostel in Coffee Bay, South Africa, and I got a free beer when I checked in so things are looking pretty good. This place even has internet, laundry service, and hot showers! I am living large.
Also- I have a South African cell with international texting so leave your number if you want some random, middle-of-the-night shoutouts...
Almost a full week without internet access... I almost couldn't take it. The African internet cafe lady just called me a computer nerd, and I think she may be right.
I finished my pony trek in Lesotho yesterday and it was incredible. Lesotho is gorgeous and the people are really nice. I opted for a 3-day, 2-night trek, we went all though a green mountain valley and swam in a waterfall. It was also one of my first opportunities to get a glimpse into rural (traditional) African life. I took a bunch of photos of the local children at the tribal village where I slept, and the concept of being able to see their own image on the camera completely confounded them. Besides never having seen a camera, few of these kids have even seen their own reflection in the mirror. I have been told many times that it is important not to give the kids money or candy, instead donate to a local charity or give them fruit, or something else that won't rot their teeth. I gave them pieces of bread with peanut butter, which made me feel like a very culturally responsible tourist.
I got a ride back to the capital of Lesotho with a 12-person Australian missionary group, then bought a traditional Basotho blanket on my way out the border, where the cab driver walked me all the way to the border and helped me find a ride to Bloemfontein. The woman was a South African nurse, trying to save money on petrol. Interesting enough, until she almost falls asleep at the wheel and decides she needs to take a 30 minute nap on the side of the road before continuing on. This was a fairly awkward (not to mention potentially dangerous) situation, but luckily we made it to the bus station just fine.
So last night I was at the bus station from for 5 hours waiting for the overnight bus from Bloemfontein to East London, a couple of people were harassing me so a German lady let me sleep in her dried fruit store. I bought a ton of it, thrilled that dried fruit is my perfect loophole in the rules of giving responsibly to the local kids.
I slept like a baby on the overnight bus thanks to my new Basotho blanket. When we arrived in East London, the driver took the entire Greyhound to the minibus taxi stand so I wouldn't walk across town alone at 7:30 in the morning. I guess that's when it really hit me, this place is not safe. Just the reactions of the locals on the bus made me realize that, although this seems in many ways like a first world country, the crime rate is incredibly high here - and I make a obvious target.
Anyways, after almost 24 hours of travel, I have arrived safely at my hostel in Coffee Bay, South Africa, and I got a free beer when I checked in so things are looking pretty good. This place even has internet, laundry service, and hot showers! I am living large.
Also- I have a South African cell with international texting so leave your number if you want some random, middle-of-the-night shoutouts...
Tuesday, April 1, 2008
Ruminations
Lucky me, I made it to the internet cafe two days in a row. Unfortunately the only reason I am here today is because things didn't work out with my SCUBA course so I will leave Vilanculos without doing any diving or completing my Open Water certification, which is a shame. Anyways, I have been meeting so many people from Africa, Europe, and the rest of the world and it has really opened up my eyes to a lot of interesting things.
First of all, it is incredible how much the world is following our presidential election. When people find out I am American, its the first thing they want to talk about. In particular, every international voice I have heard on my travels thus far desperately wants Obama to be our next president. It is interesting that although we consider him to have less international experience than Hillary, internationally, everyone seems to feel that having a black president would significantly change the way that America is seen by the world.
Secondly, EVERYBODY, and I mean everybody, has Facebook. It is seriously incredible. It entirely changes the nature of backpacking. I guess I never realized that Facebook had become such an international phenomenonon. Instead of exchanging emails, all you need is the person's name. I have rounded out my network of Facebook friends with everyone from South Africans to Brits to Israelis since I arrived. Its pretty scary to think that facebook is becoming a worldwide rolodex. New communications technology is completely revolutionizing the world, I tell you.
So enough on that. Tomorrow I am hopping a flight back to Joburg then a bus to Maseru, the capital of Lesotho, then another bus to Malealea, where I will takoe a pony trek through the country side for 3-4 day, staying overnight in tribal villages. It supposed to be unbelievable and I am happy to have the flexible itinerary to accomodate the change. I probably wont be posting for a bit, but when I do I'm sure I will have lots to relay.
First of all, it is incredible how much the world is following our presidential election. When people find out I am American, its the first thing they want to talk about. In particular, every international voice I have heard on my travels thus far desperately wants Obama to be our next president. It is interesting that although we consider him to have less international experience than Hillary, internationally, everyone seems to feel that having a black president would significantly change the way that America is seen by the world.
Secondly, EVERYBODY, and I mean everybody, has Facebook. It is seriously incredible. It entirely changes the nature of backpacking. I guess I never realized that Facebook had become such an international phenomenonon. Instead of exchanging emails, all you need is the person's name. I have rounded out my network of Facebook friends with everyone from South Africans to Brits to Israelis since I arrived. Its pretty scary to think that facebook is becoming a worldwide rolodex. New communications technology is completely revolutionizing the world, I tell you.
So enough on that. Tomorrow I am hopping a flight back to Joburg then a bus to Maseru, the capital of Lesotho, then another bus to Malealea, where I will takoe a pony trek through the country side for 3-4 day, staying overnight in tribal villages. It supposed to be unbelievable and I am happy to have the flexible itinerary to accomodate the change. I probably wont be posting for a bit, but when I do I'm sure I will have lots to relay.
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