Wednesday, April 23, 2008

Shark Diving, etc.

Hello!
Another post from Capetown, where I have been for the past 8 days. The "Mother City" has certainly been keeping my wallet well-exercised with her adventure activities, tours, shops, markets, and late night parties. I have been busy every day with a different activity... as I sit here writing this I am seasick from the constant feeling of sea swells rocking the floor of the internet cafe. I have been on a boat all day on a Great White Shark cage diving expedition (sorry mom), which I was talked into late yesterday afternoon by another new San Franciscan friend. It was a "once in a lifetime opportunity," as is everything here....
I was pretty nervous all morning and even got away without signing the indemnity form as there was a part of me that seriously believed today I could get eaten by a shark and die, or even by a "freak wave" which capsized a boat in the same waters last week and killed two American and one Norweigan tourist. There was a memorial at the dock and it was quite a sad sight. As luck would have it, I made it out alive and am here to tell the tale.
The swells were really big in the morning and I was sedated from a dramamine as we motored out into the shark-infested waters. We sat for a while with our chum bait of 6 tuna heads tied to the end of a rope, and watched as the boat of the nearest tour operator seemed to be drawing in shark after shark. The tourists shouts of excitement echoed over to us and we looked over anxiously. Finally the first couple of sharks surfaced to pursue our bait and the view from the boat was amazing, if even better than from the water, due to the mediocre visibility. The first group of 5 jumped into the cage and waited for 30 minutes in the frigid Capetownian waters for a shark, but only had one distant sighting before being called out.
I, of course, fell asleep in my wetsuit, curled up in fetal position on top of the cooler in a seasick and dramamine-induced stupor, keeping the rest of the passengers fairly dehydrated for lack of access to the boat's stash of refreshments. I wish I could say it was a more badass experience than this, and it is, mildly.
At the last possible round of diving, Lisako (my new friend) and I jumped into the cage and, thanks to a fresh batch of tuna heads, got three amazing sightings of the biggest sharks of the day - a female at least 12 feet long. After the initial adrenaline rush kicked in, the temperature of the water had left my mind completely, although my entire body was shaking from the cold. I waited an additional 20 minutes in the cage, but our initial sightings proved to be the last ones of the day. Cold and satisfied, I changed back into my warm clothes.
It was a great day and although I am exhausted and completely woozy now, I faced the infamous Great Whites of the Southern Cape and was surprisingly (or maybe not so surprisingly) more phased by the cold water than the beasts themselves.
Either way, I got some great pictures, and intend to post them soon.

Sorry mom! I wanted to make sure I made it out alive before telling you...

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