Wednesday, September 10, 2008
Spirit Animal FOUND!
For those of you who would like to see the spirit animal that revealed itself to me on my Vision Quest, click away: http://www.new.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2184684&l=3eac7&id=616632
Wednesday, July 9, 2008
SF Update
Hello...
So in case you are wondering why I've appeared to have completely sold out by posting Google Ads on my blog, it is because I have an interview tomorrow with Google Adsense and I am trying to familiarize myself with the product. Three job interviews this week, and a number of housing options lined up. I am loving SF and will let you know when all of the variables in my life have been determined!
xo,
S
So in case you are wondering why I've appeared to have completely sold out by posting Google Ads on my blog, it is because I have an interview tomorrow with Google Adsense and I am trying to familiarize myself with the product. Three job interviews this week, and a number of housing options lined up. I am loving SF and will let you know when all of the variables in my life have been determined!
xo,
S
Friday, June 13, 2008
Home!
FYI - I am home, safe and sound! What an amazing trip. The feeling is so surreal that it is almost as if I had a dream that I went to Africa and just woke up the day before yesterday. Tomorrow morning at the crack of dawn I head to the airport for a week in San Fran to start to lay the foundations for the next chapter. Never a dull moment!
Thursday, June 5, 2008
Not Good
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/7423444.stm
So yeah... I decided to stay in Malawi. Completed my PADI Open Water Certification yesterday, then went on another dive this morning, and am going on a night dive tonight. Home in 4 days!
So yeah... I decided to stay in Malawi. Completed my PADI Open Water Certification yesterday, then went on another dive this morning, and am going on a night dive tonight. Home in 4 days!
Monday, June 2, 2008
Final Thoughts on Malawi
Hey all,
I am writing from Nkhata Bay, Malawi. I got here at about 4:30am yesterday morning after a relaxing two days aboard the Ilala Ferry. I was sad to say goodbye to the kids, people, and cushy digs in Liwonde with HELP Malawi. But I was excited for the final days of my journey, cruising through Lake Malawi, finally finishing off the last of the books I've been lugging around with me the entire way, and ready to put the finishing touches on my tan before I get back.
Nkhata Bay is as peaceful as can be. Yet (I never thought I would ever hear myself say this), I almost feel like I am as relaxed as I possibly can get. And when you are no longer in the process of relaxing, but rather already relaxed, does it make trying to relax less enjoyable? These are important philosophical quandaries...
I guess what I mean is, without anything to do, am starting to get a little bit bored, and antsy for what is next. I am moving to San Francisco and I am so excited about it. In retrospect, I am glad to have waited until I really knew I was ready before making the move. All of the new SF friends I have met on this journey will definitely help make the transition easier!
With exactly one week left before I head back to the states, I am torn between trying to pull a last minute travel bender to Zanzibar. While this was my original plan, I now have only about 5 days to pull it off, of which a minimum of 48 hours involves more international travel via public transport. I have been so steadfastly devoted to getting to Zanzibar, and even decided it was worth all of the travel drama to get there. Now I find out from a girl in my hostel that the island is experiencing its worst power cut in years, which started two weeks ago and doesn't look like it will be fixed anytime soon. Water prices is soaring, and many businesses have closed down because they are unable to afford generator power. This definitely throws a wrench in my plans. I have the next 12 hours to decide what I am going to do...
I am writing from Nkhata Bay, Malawi. I got here at about 4:30am yesterday morning after a relaxing two days aboard the Ilala Ferry. I was sad to say goodbye to the kids, people, and cushy digs in Liwonde with HELP Malawi. But I was excited for the final days of my journey, cruising through Lake Malawi, finally finishing off the last of the books I've been lugging around with me the entire way, and ready to put the finishing touches on my tan before I get back.
Nkhata Bay is as peaceful as can be. Yet (I never thought I would ever hear myself say this), I almost feel like I am as relaxed as I possibly can get. And when you are no longer in the process of relaxing, but rather already relaxed, does it make trying to relax less enjoyable? These are important philosophical quandaries...
I guess what I mean is, without anything to do, am starting to get a little bit bored, and antsy for what is next. I am moving to San Francisco and I am so excited about it. In retrospect, I am glad to have waited until I really knew I was ready before making the move. All of the new SF friends I have met on this journey will definitely help make the transition easier!
With exactly one week left before I head back to the states, I am torn between trying to pull a last minute travel bender to Zanzibar. While this was my original plan, I now have only about 5 days to pull it off, of which a minimum of 48 hours involves more international travel via public transport. I have been so steadfastly devoted to getting to Zanzibar, and even decided it was worth all of the travel drama to get there. Now I find out from a girl in my hostel that the island is experiencing its worst power cut in years, which started two weeks ago and doesn't look like it will be fixed anytime soon. Water prices is soaring, and many businesses have closed down because they are unable to afford generator power. This definitely throws a wrench in my plans. I have the next 12 hours to decide what I am going to do...
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
The Saga: Part 2
Well I can tell by all of your comments that part 1 of the saga was so riveting that you just couldn't WAIT to find out more?! That was sarcastic. Nobody has commented on my blog in quite a while now and I have to admit, it makes me a little bit sad. For what its worth, it totally makes my day when people comment - otherwise I have no way to know who (if anyone?!) is reading. Well screw you all anyways, everyone knows its the writing itself that's the cathartic part.
But back to the saga:
So how did I survive this crazy situation? Well, it was definitely not without a large dose of luck. Minutes after I finished writing in my journal, a local woman tells me that she, too, is headed for Lilongwe and that I can tag along with her. Still over my head about the money (or lack thereof) situation, I get into the first border-bound 'taxi' - in reality more like a 20-year old Toyota Corolla stuffed with 8 passengers - without much of a plan. When we get to the border, my new friend/guardian angel agrees to front me the money and take me to an ATM in Lilongwe where I can pay her back. Thank god! This woman's generosity completely saved my ass.
We proceed to bounce from taxi to taxi, corolla to corolla, finally arriving into Lilongwe 4 taxis and 4 hours later. Kindly, this woman helps me call David, the contact person at H.E.L.P. Malawi, finds me a Malawian simcard for my phone, some breakfast, and puts me on the right bus for Liwonde. Another jam-packed 4 hour bus ride later, I disembark groggily in Lowinde - a town that looks like the identical twin of about every other roadside town we have passed so far: dusty dirt roads, devolving cement and mud-brick edifices, women and children peddling everything from bananas to peanuts to fried bread and potatoes on the side of the road.
I had told David to expect me, and was hoping that we would find eachother on the sheer fact that we are likely to be the only two white people within a 10km radius of the town. I get out, wander a few steps, and sure enough, find David. He guides me toward another mazungo (white person), who turns out to be Jillian Wolstein, the founder and executive director of the organization. I join them for a cold coke and a plate of chips (fries) at one of the town's few restaurants, and tell them about my long and crazy journey. Long story abbreviated, I come to find out that I am sitting in this restaurant in the middle of nowhere in Malawi with two Jews from Cleveland. Ha! What are the odds. It is a seriously small world, I'm telling you.
So we take their safari-esque old school Landrover down the dirt road to Mvuu camp, where the operation is headquartered. It is pristine and incredibly remote. To get to the lodge itself requires a boat across a sparkling river, full of grumbling hippos and stealthy crocodiles. Baboons, elephants, and water buck traipse along the river banks. It is clear that we are in a national park.
Upon reaching the lodge, my fate changes for the better, and in a matter of a few hours, I have gone from rags to riches. The beautiful 4 star safari lodge sits overlooking the river, with dark wood and thatched roofs, canvas-cushioned chairs woven from wood and wicker. As a volunteer, I get to stay here for free - and due to the current overflow of people (Jillian has brought with her an entourage of 5 people), I get to stay my first few nights in a luxury chalet by the river. There is a family of warthogs that munches grass outside my door. They look like Pumba from the Lion King. The beds are soft, the water is hot, and the view of the sun setting over the river is absolutely spectacular.
But things get better when I emerge for dinner to find white linen tablecloths and a three-course menu. The only thing that could and did make me happier was when I discovered that breakfast include da build-your-own omelette bar. Build your own omelette bar?! Where am I?
The following afternoon, I get my first taste of Nanthomba school, the primary school where I will be working. I sit in on a Standard 7 (7th grade class), and help teach an English lesson. The class ended in a full-on Malawian dance party, which, in my opinion, is when these kids' personalities shine the most. The sense of rhythm here is unbelievable, and it is such a freeing and expressive part of their culture.
Last night was David's 25th birthday, and we spent it drinking and dancing around the fire at a cultural village, as a local Malawian band played and the entire village danced alongside us late into the night. I am getting some serious practice in African dance!
That is all for now. Life is good. More soon.
But back to the saga:
So how did I survive this crazy situation? Well, it was definitely not without a large dose of luck. Minutes after I finished writing in my journal, a local woman tells me that she, too, is headed for Lilongwe and that I can tag along with her. Still over my head about the money (or lack thereof) situation, I get into the first border-bound 'taxi' - in reality more like a 20-year old Toyota Corolla stuffed with 8 passengers - without much of a plan. When we get to the border, my new friend/guardian angel agrees to front me the money and take me to an ATM in Lilongwe where I can pay her back. Thank god! This woman's generosity completely saved my ass.
We proceed to bounce from taxi to taxi, corolla to corolla, finally arriving into Lilongwe 4 taxis and 4 hours later. Kindly, this woman helps me call David, the contact person at H.E.L.P. Malawi, finds me a Malawian simcard for my phone, some breakfast, and puts me on the right bus for Liwonde. Another jam-packed 4 hour bus ride later, I disembark groggily in Lowinde - a town that looks like the identical twin of about every other roadside town we have passed so far: dusty dirt roads, devolving cement and mud-brick edifices, women and children peddling everything from bananas to peanuts to fried bread and potatoes on the side of the road.
I had told David to expect me, and was hoping that we would find eachother on the sheer fact that we are likely to be the only two white people within a 10km radius of the town. I get out, wander a few steps, and sure enough, find David. He guides me toward another mazungo (white person), who turns out to be Jillian Wolstein, the founder and executive director of the organization. I join them for a cold coke and a plate of chips (fries) at one of the town's few restaurants, and tell them about my long and crazy journey. Long story abbreviated, I come to find out that I am sitting in this restaurant in the middle of nowhere in Malawi with two Jews from Cleveland. Ha! What are the odds. It is a seriously small world, I'm telling you.
So we take their safari-esque old school Landrover down the dirt road to Mvuu camp, where the operation is headquartered. It is pristine and incredibly remote. To get to the lodge itself requires a boat across a sparkling river, full of grumbling hippos and stealthy crocodiles. Baboons, elephants, and water buck traipse along the river banks. It is clear that we are in a national park.
Upon reaching the lodge, my fate changes for the better, and in a matter of a few hours, I have gone from rags to riches. The beautiful 4 star safari lodge sits overlooking the river, with dark wood and thatched roofs, canvas-cushioned chairs woven from wood and wicker. As a volunteer, I get to stay here for free - and due to the current overflow of people (Jillian has brought with her an entourage of 5 people), I get to stay my first few nights in a luxury chalet by the river. There is a family of warthogs that munches grass outside my door. They look like Pumba from the Lion King. The beds are soft, the water is hot, and the view of the sun setting over the river is absolutely spectacular.
But things get better when I emerge for dinner to find white linen tablecloths and a three-course menu. The only thing that could and did make me happier was when I discovered that breakfast include da build-your-own omelette bar. Build your own omelette bar?! Where am I?
The following afternoon, I get my first taste of Nanthomba school, the primary school where I will be working. I sit in on a Standard 7 (7th grade class), and help teach an English lesson. The class ended in a full-on Malawian dance party, which, in my opinion, is when these kids' personalities shine the most. The sense of rhythm here is unbelievable, and it is such a freeing and expressive part of their culture.
Last night was David's 25th birthday, and we spent it drinking and dancing around the fire at a cultural village, as a local Malawian band played and the entire village danced alongside us late into the night. I am getting some serious practice in African dance!
That is all for now. Life is good. More soon.
Wednesday, May 21, 2008
The Saga: Part 1
May 18, 2008
5:00 am
Chipata (?), Zambia
After a period of smooth sailing, I am experiencing the toughest and most challenging day of travel since my stint from Maseru to Coffee Bay, and even that pales in comparison. I woke up at 5:30 am yesterday morning after parting ways sadly and indefinitely with my new friends from my overland trip.
I showed up at the bus station in Livingstone, Zambia about 15 minutes before the bus departed for Lusaka, which I (mistakenly?) took to be a good omen for my travels. 7 hours later, the bus arrived in the Lusaka bus station and I find out that there are no busses running directly to Malawi, as I was previously told, but instead I have to go another 9 hours to Chipata, where I can THEN catch my 1.5 hour bus to Lilongwe, Malawi's capital. With only American dollars and a mild sense of panic on me, I hastily exchanged money with some dodgy black market dealer and later realized that I had been scammed out of at least 10 dollars. Damn it!
The bus, mildly put, is a "locals bus," and I am the only white face among its passengers, loaded at least 15-20 people over capacity. I proceed to sit on the bus for 3 hours as it idles in the Lusaka station watching locals bring aboard everything from sacks of grain, to babies swathed in cloth around their backs, to solar-powered battery chargers. By the time the bus grumbles out of the station, the aisles are full with suitcases, boxes, and bags of grain - on top of which an additional row of people is seated.
Perhaps the highlight of the drive was a pit stop at Zambia's Luangwa bridge at about 9:30pm, where I disembarked to a cacophony of rhythmic Zambian reggae music and the soft glow of candles, illuminating a nighttime market where women peddled fruits, vegetables, and dry salted fish. It was one of those rare, complately authentic travel moments. The only foreigner among the crowd, I felt I was witnessing one of Zambia's hidden secrets. Of course, my camera failed to deliver in that moment, but I will always remember this memory.
Finally, 9 hours after leaving Lusaka, I awake groggily at 2am to find that the bus has arrived at the Chipata station (read: barren lot). Asking one of the attendants about the morning bus to Lilongwe, I find out that the bus only runs certain days of the week and - surprise! - tomorrow is not one of them. Instead, I have to take a combination of three more local "taxis" (read: 8 people packed into a 1980 Toyota Corolla) to reach Lilongwe.
The attendant tells me the price and I return to the bus to check my money situation, only to find that the failsafe Bank of Brazier has, indeed, failed me. I am left groping myself in public in an attempt to recover the lost bills, but to no avail. I am missing $70,000 Zambian Kwatre, or approximately $25 US Dollars. This is the last of my money and there is no ATM in an 100 mile radius. I am starting to panic at this moment, finally uncovering $11 USD in cash among all of my possessions. Value-wise, this should be enough to get me across the border, where there is rumored to be an ATM. However, none of the taxis accept US currency and the black market traders, uninterested in small bills, will take a cut so large that I will again not have enough to make it as far as the ATM.
I fall into a fitful sleep on the parked bus for two hours before I am awoken at 4:30am with a CRASH! as the bus driver, attempting to move the bus, has instead rear-ended another. I reach to gather my possessions and realize that, somehow, in the middle of the night, the bus cleaner has thrown out my entire bag full of food as well as my two bottlees of water.
So here I am, in Chipata at 5:00 am, writing this in attempt to fend off the impending panic. I have officially broken nearly every one of my self-set travel rules, which is to always have in my possession food, water, suncreen, bugspray, my passport, and enough money to buy a bus ticket and a bottle of rum. At the time being, I find myself at a loss for arguably the three most important of these things.
How am I going to find a way out of this mess?
To be continued...
5:00 am
Chipata (?), Zambia
After a period of smooth sailing, I am experiencing the toughest and most challenging day of travel since my stint from Maseru to Coffee Bay, and even that pales in comparison. I woke up at 5:30 am yesterday morning after parting ways sadly and indefinitely with my new friends from my overland trip.
I showed up at the bus station in Livingstone, Zambia about 15 minutes before the bus departed for Lusaka, which I (mistakenly?) took to be a good omen for my travels. 7 hours later, the bus arrived in the Lusaka bus station and I find out that there are no busses running directly to Malawi, as I was previously told, but instead I have to go another 9 hours to Chipata, where I can THEN catch my 1.5 hour bus to Lilongwe, Malawi's capital. With only American dollars and a mild sense of panic on me, I hastily exchanged money with some dodgy black market dealer and later realized that I had been scammed out of at least 10 dollars. Damn it!
The bus, mildly put, is a "locals bus," and I am the only white face among its passengers, loaded at least 15-20 people over capacity. I proceed to sit on the bus for 3 hours as it idles in the Lusaka station watching locals bring aboard everything from sacks of grain, to babies swathed in cloth around their backs, to solar-powered battery chargers. By the time the bus grumbles out of the station, the aisles are full with suitcases, boxes, and bags of grain - on top of which an additional row of people is seated.
Perhaps the highlight of the drive was a pit stop at Zambia's Luangwa bridge at about 9:30pm, where I disembarked to a cacophony of rhythmic Zambian reggae music and the soft glow of candles, illuminating a nighttime market where women peddled fruits, vegetables, and dry salted fish. It was one of those rare, complately authentic travel moments. The only foreigner among the crowd, I felt I was witnessing one of Zambia's hidden secrets. Of course, my camera failed to deliver in that moment, but I will always remember this memory.
Finally, 9 hours after leaving Lusaka, I awake groggily at 2am to find that the bus has arrived at the Chipata station (read: barren lot). Asking one of the attendants about the morning bus to Lilongwe, I find out that the bus only runs certain days of the week and - surprise! - tomorrow is not one of them. Instead, I have to take a combination of three more local "taxis" (read: 8 people packed into a 1980 Toyota Corolla) to reach Lilongwe.
The attendant tells me the price and I return to the bus to check my money situation, only to find that the failsafe Bank of Brazier has, indeed, failed me. I am left groping myself in public in an attempt to recover the lost bills, but to no avail. I am missing $70,000 Zambian Kwatre, or approximately $25 US Dollars. This is the last of my money and there is no ATM in an 100 mile radius. I am starting to panic at this moment, finally uncovering $11 USD in cash among all of my possessions. Value-wise, this should be enough to get me across the border, where there is rumored to be an ATM. However, none of the taxis accept US currency and the black market traders, uninterested in small bills, will take a cut so large that I will again not have enough to make it as far as the ATM.
I fall into a fitful sleep on the parked bus for two hours before I am awoken at 4:30am with a CRASH! as the bus driver, attempting to move the bus, has instead rear-ended another. I reach to gather my possessions and realize that, somehow, in the middle of the night, the bus cleaner has thrown out my entire bag full of food as well as my two bottlees of water.
So here I am, in Chipata at 5:00 am, writing this in attempt to fend off the impending panic. I have officially broken nearly every one of my self-set travel rules, which is to always have in my possession food, water, suncreen, bugspray, my passport, and enough money to buy a bus ticket and a bottle of rum. At the time being, I find myself at a loss for arguably the three most important of these things.
How am I going to find a way out of this mess?
To be continued...
Thursday, May 15, 2008
Endings and new beginnings
Hello hello!
It's been a while since my last post, so thanks for bearing with me. Somehow I find that the less I write, the less I am inclined to write. But I will try to break that pattern.
I arrived at Victoria Falls with my overland group at about noon today. We spent the afternoon galavating along the incredible vistas, getting soaked by the spray, and listening to Vic Falls' notorious "thunder." Talk about an unbelievable place. The magnitude and breadth of water rushing over the falls is so awe-inspiring that it could make even the staunchest atheist believe in a higher power. It was definitely one of the highlights of my trip thus far, and, timely enough, its conclusion. The day after tomorrow I am hopping a bus from Livingstone, Zambia to Lilongwe, Malawi to begin my brief period of volunteer work at a Malawian school. The school is located inside Liwonde National Park, meaning its definitely going to be rural in the wildest sense of the word - Liwonde is known for is abundant hippo and elephant populations.
The organization is called H.E.L.P. Malawi - you can visit their website at www.helpmalawichildren.org.
I first heard about the organization from an Israeli guy named Yiftach who I met in Vilanculos, Mozambique. I mentioned that I have really been wanting to do some volunteer work while I am here in Africa, but most of the programs charge you as much as $2500 for two weeks, which is absurd. I have a moral issue with my having to pay to volunteer my time... it just doesn't sit right with me. Yiftach mentioned that he had met the founder of this organization and that she was looking to find teachers for the organizations fledgling school. Ironically, she happens to be an American housewife from Ohio who has dedicated her entire life savings to start this organization, and she travels back and forth between Malawi and Ohio, where she has three kids. I am very excited to get involved, and it sounds like the volunteers there are very excited to have me.
I am sad that this tour is ending, as I have made a lot of friends and enjoyed the laid back, hands-off traveling. But my anticipation for the next three weeks far outweighs my sadness, and I am ready to be off on my own once again. Each chapter of this "Africa-quest" has been entirely unique and complementary to the next, so I know that what comes will be full of excitement and adventures.
It is crazy to think that, exactly one year ago yesterday, I graduated from college. I can't believe its already been an entire year?! I have a journal entry that I will excerpt here eventually to explain my thoughts on it in more detail, but the long and short of it is... if one year ago I had been able to see myself now, I would have been overwhelmed with excitement and pride. I am really here, I am doing this, I am living and loving every moment to the fullest. It dawned on me a few days ago when I was riding in a mokoro - a traditional Botswanan dugout wood canoe - through the Okavango Delta. It was one of the paramount reasons I wanted to come on this trip. I remember sitting on my bed late at night with the heat of my laptop burning the top of my covers, looking up pictures and maps of the Delta. At that point, making it as far as the Okavango Delta in Botswana seemed almost like a complete and utter pipe dream. I had no idea if I would be able to make it in Africa for that long, let alone to make it that far. It was an amazing moment to realize that I am really living my dreams.
Indeed, a cheesy success story if there ever was one....
It's been a while since my last post, so thanks for bearing with me. Somehow I find that the less I write, the less I am inclined to write. But I will try to break that pattern.
I arrived at Victoria Falls with my overland group at about noon today. We spent the afternoon galavating along the incredible vistas, getting soaked by the spray, and listening to Vic Falls' notorious "thunder." Talk about an unbelievable place. The magnitude and breadth of water rushing over the falls is so awe-inspiring that it could make even the staunchest atheist believe in a higher power. It was definitely one of the highlights of my trip thus far, and, timely enough, its conclusion. The day after tomorrow I am hopping a bus from Livingstone, Zambia to Lilongwe, Malawi to begin my brief period of volunteer work at a Malawian school. The school is located inside Liwonde National Park, meaning its definitely going to be rural in the wildest sense of the word - Liwonde is known for is abundant hippo and elephant populations.
The organization is called H.E.L.P. Malawi - you can visit their website at www.helpmalawichildren.org.
I first heard about the organization from an Israeli guy named Yiftach who I met in Vilanculos, Mozambique. I mentioned that I have really been wanting to do some volunteer work while I am here in Africa, but most of the programs charge you as much as $2500 for two weeks, which is absurd. I have a moral issue with my having to pay to volunteer my time... it just doesn't sit right with me. Yiftach mentioned that he had met the founder of this organization and that she was looking to find teachers for the organizations fledgling school. Ironically, she happens to be an American housewife from Ohio who has dedicated her entire life savings to start this organization, and she travels back and forth between Malawi and Ohio, where she has three kids. I am very excited to get involved, and it sounds like the volunteers there are very excited to have me.
I am sad that this tour is ending, as I have made a lot of friends and enjoyed the laid back, hands-off traveling. But my anticipation for the next three weeks far outweighs my sadness, and I am ready to be off on my own once again. Each chapter of this "Africa-quest" has been entirely unique and complementary to the next, so I know that what comes will be full of excitement and adventures.
It is crazy to think that, exactly one year ago yesterday, I graduated from college. I can't believe its already been an entire year?! I have a journal entry that I will excerpt here eventually to explain my thoughts on it in more detail, but the long and short of it is... if one year ago I had been able to see myself now, I would have been overwhelmed with excitement and pride. I am really here, I am doing this, I am living and loving every moment to the fullest. It dawned on me a few days ago when I was riding in a mokoro - a traditional Botswanan dugout wood canoe - through the Okavango Delta. It was one of the paramount reasons I wanted to come on this trip. I remember sitting on my bed late at night with the heat of my laptop burning the top of my covers, looking up pictures and maps of the Delta. At that point, making it as far as the Okavango Delta in Botswana seemed almost like a complete and utter pipe dream. I had no idea if I would be able to make it in Africa for that long, let alone to make it that far. It was an amazing moment to realize that I am really living my dreams.
Indeed, a cheesy success story if there ever was one....
Thursday, May 8, 2008
Another hello
Hey all,
A quick hello from Windhoek, the capital of Namibia. My internet access has been rare and limited, and it appears only to be getting more so. I have been really enjoying my overland trip, despite the fact that it seems like easier and more "touristy" traveling than I have been used to. Nevertheless, sometimes it is nice to sit back and relax with a beer and/or and good book and let someone else do the driving. Tomorrow we are venturing into Botswana and into the famed Okavango Delta, which I would encourage you all to google image search, because it is supposed to be absolutely unreal. My trip ends in just over a week in Victoria Falls, and from there, the real adventure begins as I venture out into Malawi and Zanzibar for my final three weeks in Africa. All is well here and I miss and love you guys, I am starting to get excited about coming home and seeing all my friends and family again....
... but not too excited ;)
A quick hello from Windhoek, the capital of Namibia. My internet access has been rare and limited, and it appears only to be getting more so. I have been really enjoying my overland trip, despite the fact that it seems like easier and more "touristy" traveling than I have been used to. Nevertheless, sometimes it is nice to sit back and relax with a beer and/or and good book and let someone else do the driving. Tomorrow we are venturing into Botswana and into the famed Okavango Delta, which I would encourage you all to google image search, because it is supposed to be absolutely unreal. My trip ends in just over a week in Victoria Falls, and from there, the real adventure begins as I venture out into Malawi and Zanzibar for my final three weeks in Africa. All is well here and I miss and love you guys, I am starting to get excited about coming home and seeing all my friends and family again....
... but not too excited ;)
Friday, May 2, 2008
hi from namibia
i am in namibia, pretty delirious from lots of early mornings and full-day drives. lets just say that there is a lot of sand here and tomorrow i am going to ride on it with a board.
Saturday, April 26, 2008
Self-Reflection (excerpted from my journal)
Entry #2 from Capetown - today is my last day here. I am sad because I have had some amazing times here but I am more excited because, after 10 days, I am ready for what's next. And, lucky for me, what's next happens to be a three-week overland camping trip through Namibia, Botswana, and ending in Victoria Falls.
I have to say, things worked out fatefully well with my itinerary. By the time I was mid-way through the Garden Route, I was so ready for a big city. Then I arrived in Capetown and proceeded to party ever night for one week straight, go on a shopping spree and charge almost $500 to my credit card. In my 11 days here, I have seen every single sight, done (almost) every single activity that the Mother City has to offer. And I must say - she has been good to me. I have some great memories from my time here. But now, 11 days later, I am ready to blow this popsicle stand! Now I could not be more ready to get back into "real" Africa, be in the wild and in the boonies, camp! And, apropos as it is, that is what comes next for me.
The days are rolling by and I am so so happy, so relaxed. I have been traveling for approximately 40 days now and there has rarely been a dull moment. Overall, my times alone have been cherished because I am so often with another traveler. I am so excited, wonderous, and brave. I am so thankful for this experience, for the amazing blessings that have marked my journey thus far. On my last day in Capetown and I have been safe and healthy the whole way through. I feel that God, or some greater force, must be looking out for me, protecting me. Who knows, maybe I am creating it for myself out of my own intentionality to be safe. Either way, I feel for the first time this year that I am exactly where I am supposed to be, I am exactly the person I want to be. I have been groping so long to find this feeling, and to finally possess it makes me feel so incredibly fulfilled and free. Every day is the best day of my life. How could it not be? The world is at my fingertips... literally.
I am breaking so many outdated beliefs that I created about myself years ago - I am not an outdoors person, I get homesick, I am a spoiled brat, I can't do it on my own. Well guess what, I was wrong. Maybe not wrong, per se, but I had been continuing to idnetify myself out of an identity that had been created by a child, as if it were steadfast and true. So I was a 10 year old girl whose sleeping bag got rained on at horse back riding camp and I had one of the most miserable nights of my life. Who wouldn't have been miserable under those conditions? But I created from that that I wasn't "outdoorsy," and I have operated ever since as if it were true. Sure, I may be a fair-weather camper, but who isn't? Who wants to go camping in a hail storm? Now I find myself on the brink of a three-week camping trip through Southern Africa and I ask myself, if I am not an outdoorsy person, to do this, then I don't know what I am.
Of course, this is only one example of the ways that I find myself constantly recreating myself, redefining myself and my sense of self-identity here. I am no longer constrained by my past configuarations, limitations of self. Every moment is generative, an opportunity to create myself anew.
xoxo,
Sara
I have to say, things worked out fatefully well with my itinerary. By the time I was mid-way through the Garden Route, I was so ready for a big city. Then I arrived in Capetown and proceeded to party ever night for one week straight, go on a shopping spree and charge almost $500 to my credit card. In my 11 days here, I have seen every single sight, done (almost) every single activity that the Mother City has to offer. And I must say - she has been good to me. I have some great memories from my time here. But now, 11 days later, I am ready to blow this popsicle stand! Now I could not be more ready to get back into "real" Africa, be in the wild and in the boonies, camp! And, apropos as it is, that is what comes next for me.
The days are rolling by and I am so so happy, so relaxed. I have been traveling for approximately 40 days now and there has rarely been a dull moment. Overall, my times alone have been cherished because I am so often with another traveler. I am so excited, wonderous, and brave. I am so thankful for this experience, for the amazing blessings that have marked my journey thus far. On my last day in Capetown and I have been safe and healthy the whole way through. I feel that God, or some greater force, must be looking out for me, protecting me. Who knows, maybe I am creating it for myself out of my own intentionality to be safe. Either way, I feel for the first time this year that I am exactly where I am supposed to be, I am exactly the person I want to be. I have been groping so long to find this feeling, and to finally possess it makes me feel so incredibly fulfilled and free. Every day is the best day of my life. How could it not be? The world is at my fingertips... literally.
I am breaking so many outdated beliefs that I created about myself years ago - I am not an outdoors person, I get homesick, I am a spoiled brat, I can't do it on my own. Well guess what, I was wrong. Maybe not wrong, per se, but I had been continuing to idnetify myself out of an identity that had been created by a child, as if it were steadfast and true. So I was a 10 year old girl whose sleeping bag got rained on at horse back riding camp and I had one of the most miserable nights of my life. Who wouldn't have been miserable under those conditions? But I created from that that I wasn't "outdoorsy," and I have operated ever since as if it were true. Sure, I may be a fair-weather camper, but who isn't? Who wants to go camping in a hail storm? Now I find myself on the brink of a three-week camping trip through Southern Africa and I ask myself, if I am not an outdoorsy person, to do this, then I don't know what I am.
Of course, this is only one example of the ways that I find myself constantly recreating myself, redefining myself and my sense of self-identity here. I am no longer constrained by my past configuarations, limitations of self. Every moment is generative, an opportunity to create myself anew.
xoxo,
Sara
Wednesday, April 23, 2008
Shark Diving, etc.
Hello!
Another post from Capetown, where I have been for the past 8 days. The "Mother City" has certainly been keeping my wallet well-exercised with her adventure activities, tours, shops, markets, and late night parties. I have been busy every day with a different activity... as I sit here writing this I am seasick from the constant feeling of sea swells rocking the floor of the internet cafe. I have been on a boat all day on a Great White Shark cage diving expedition (sorry mom), which I was talked into late yesterday afternoon by another new San Franciscan friend. It was a "once in a lifetime opportunity," as is everything here....
I was pretty nervous all morning and even got away without signing the indemnity form as there was a part of me that seriously believed today I could get eaten by a shark and die, or even by a "freak wave" which capsized a boat in the same waters last week and killed two American and one Norweigan tourist. There was a memorial at the dock and it was quite a sad sight. As luck would have it, I made it out alive and am here to tell the tale.
The swells were really big in the morning and I was sedated from a dramamine as we motored out into the shark-infested waters. We sat for a while with our chum bait of 6 tuna heads tied to the end of a rope, and watched as the boat of the nearest tour operator seemed to be drawing in shark after shark. The tourists shouts of excitement echoed over to us and we looked over anxiously. Finally the first couple of sharks surfaced to pursue our bait and the view from the boat was amazing, if even better than from the water, due to the mediocre visibility. The first group of 5 jumped into the cage and waited for 30 minutes in the frigid Capetownian waters for a shark, but only had one distant sighting before being called out.
I, of course, fell asleep in my wetsuit, curled up in fetal position on top of the cooler in a seasick and dramamine-induced stupor, keeping the rest of the passengers fairly dehydrated for lack of access to the boat's stash of refreshments. I wish I could say it was a more badass experience than this, and it is, mildly.
At the last possible round of diving, Lisako (my new friend) and I jumped into the cage and, thanks to a fresh batch of tuna heads, got three amazing sightings of the biggest sharks of the day - a female at least 12 feet long. After the initial adrenaline rush kicked in, the temperature of the water had left my mind completely, although my entire body was shaking from the cold. I waited an additional 20 minutes in the cage, but our initial sightings proved to be the last ones of the day. Cold and satisfied, I changed back into my warm clothes.
It was a great day and although I am exhausted and completely woozy now, I faced the infamous Great Whites of the Southern Cape and was surprisingly (or maybe not so surprisingly) more phased by the cold water than the beasts themselves.
Either way, I got some great pictures, and intend to post them soon.
Sorry mom! I wanted to make sure I made it out alive before telling you...
Another post from Capetown, where I have been for the past 8 days. The "Mother City" has certainly been keeping my wallet well-exercised with her adventure activities, tours, shops, markets, and late night parties. I have been busy every day with a different activity... as I sit here writing this I am seasick from the constant feeling of sea swells rocking the floor of the internet cafe. I have been on a boat all day on a Great White Shark cage diving expedition (sorry mom), which I was talked into late yesterday afternoon by another new San Franciscan friend. It was a "once in a lifetime opportunity," as is everything here....
I was pretty nervous all morning and even got away without signing the indemnity form as there was a part of me that seriously believed today I could get eaten by a shark and die, or even by a "freak wave" which capsized a boat in the same waters last week and killed two American and one Norweigan tourist. There was a memorial at the dock and it was quite a sad sight. As luck would have it, I made it out alive and am here to tell the tale.
The swells were really big in the morning and I was sedated from a dramamine as we motored out into the shark-infested waters. We sat for a while with our chum bait of 6 tuna heads tied to the end of a rope, and watched as the boat of the nearest tour operator seemed to be drawing in shark after shark. The tourists shouts of excitement echoed over to us and we looked over anxiously. Finally the first couple of sharks surfaced to pursue our bait and the view from the boat was amazing, if even better than from the water, due to the mediocre visibility. The first group of 5 jumped into the cage and waited for 30 minutes in the frigid Capetownian waters for a shark, but only had one distant sighting before being called out.
I, of course, fell asleep in my wetsuit, curled up in fetal position on top of the cooler in a seasick and dramamine-induced stupor, keeping the rest of the passengers fairly dehydrated for lack of access to the boat's stash of refreshments. I wish I could say it was a more badass experience than this, and it is, mildly.
At the last possible round of diving, Lisako (my new friend) and I jumped into the cage and, thanks to a fresh batch of tuna heads, got three amazing sightings of the biggest sharks of the day - a female at least 12 feet long. After the initial adrenaline rush kicked in, the temperature of the water had left my mind completely, although my entire body was shaking from the cold. I waited an additional 20 minutes in the cage, but our initial sightings proved to be the last ones of the day. Cold and satisfied, I changed back into my warm clothes.
It was a great day and although I am exhausted and completely woozy now, I faced the infamous Great Whites of the Southern Cape and was surprisingly (or maybe not so surprisingly) more phased by the cold water than the beasts themselves.
Either way, I got some great pictures, and intend to post them soon.
Sorry mom! I wanted to make sure I made it out alive before telling you...
Sunday, April 20, 2008
Friday, April 18, 2008
Capetown
Hi from Capetown! I am writing from an internet cafe that doubles as a barbershop. Only in Africa...
I arrived here three days ago and have been having a blast. The morning before I caught the bus to Capetown, I went on a kloofing expedition - also known as canyoning - which basically involves hiking and swimming through a river canyon/ravine. It was beautiful but I was freezing cold, and couldn't help thinking that I am temporarily maxed out on outdoor adventure excursions and ready for some big city action.
Getting to Capetown after having spent a month in tribal village huts and tiny beach towns was definitely a shock to the system. I haven't been in a big city since my plane arrived in Johannesburg, and suffice to say, I didn't exactly venture out to see what it was all about. Luckily it didn't take long for me to tap into my city girl roots, and in no time I was doing some considerable damage at the local shops and bars.
It is great to see my brother again. University of Capetown is absolutely stunning - Ivy-flanked stone buildings set to the beautiful backdrop of Table Mountain. I enjoyed seeing David's new South African haunts, his house, and meeting his friends. Over the next couple of days we are taking a tour of the nearby winelands, visiting the city's best beaches, and venturing out to Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for many years.
I just booked the next big chapter of my "Africa quest" - a 3-week overland camping tour through Namibia, Botswana, and Zambia, embarking from Capetown on Sunday the 27th and ending in Victoria Falls on May 16th. I met a girl from San Francisco at one of my hostels on the Garden Route, and she happens to be going on my same trip, so I am excited to have a friend in the group.
I still have more than a week in Capetown though, and I plan on making the most of it!
More soon...
I arrived here three days ago and have been having a blast. The morning before I caught the bus to Capetown, I went on a kloofing expedition - also known as canyoning - which basically involves hiking and swimming through a river canyon/ravine. It was beautiful but I was freezing cold, and couldn't help thinking that I am temporarily maxed out on outdoor adventure excursions and ready for some big city action.
Getting to Capetown after having spent a month in tribal village huts and tiny beach towns was definitely a shock to the system. I haven't been in a big city since my plane arrived in Johannesburg, and suffice to say, I didn't exactly venture out to see what it was all about. Luckily it didn't take long for me to tap into my city girl roots, and in no time I was doing some considerable damage at the local shops and bars.
It is great to see my brother again. University of Capetown is absolutely stunning - Ivy-flanked stone buildings set to the beautiful backdrop of Table Mountain. I enjoyed seeing David's new South African haunts, his house, and meeting his friends. Over the next couple of days we are taking a tour of the nearby winelands, visiting the city's best beaches, and venturing out to Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for many years.
I just booked the next big chapter of my "Africa quest" - a 3-week overland camping tour through Namibia, Botswana, and Zambia, embarking from Capetown on Sunday the 27th and ending in Victoria Falls on May 16th. I met a girl from San Francisco at one of my hostels on the Garden Route, and she happens to be going on my same trip, so I am excited to have a friend in the group.
I still have more than a week in Capetown though, and I plan on making the most of it!
More soon...
Sunday, April 13, 2008
Recent updates
Being back on the coast of South Africa has been great, things seem to be getting progressively more civilized the closer I get to Capetown. Coffee Bay was definitely the highlight, with cheap and delicious meals, free surf lessons every morning, and all kinds of fun hikes, tours, people, and parties. From there I stopped in Cintsa, known for Buccaneers' Backpackers, considered the best in South Africa. Although it is mid-autumn here and bordering on the off-season for tourism, I enjoyed the low-key scene in Cintsa, bought some beaded jewelry from the local ladies (lovingly referred to as the "mama's"), hung out on the beach, and got a full body massage for about $15. Life is tough...
From there I moved west into SA's popular tourist scene, the Garden Route. I started at a place called Plettenberg Bay, where I hitched a ride with a Dutch couple to "Monkeyland" - think Sea World for monkeys with no cages. I left Plett early because it was pretty boring compared to the places I have been, and moved on to the next stop on the Garden Route, Knysna, where I am writing from now.
Yesterday i went to the Knysna Elephant Sanctuary and paid about 30 dollars to stand around taking pictures with elephants, but I'm not complaining because I got some amazing pictures. Today i went on a ferry to a nature reserve called Featherbed where we took a jeep ride up to the top then hiked 2.5 kms down then took the ferry back. it was fun except the other tour-goers were a 30 person 8th grade class from London and a bunch of toddlers. Things are getting pretty touristy here.
Surprisingly, this has also been one of the loneliest stretches of my trip thus far. My past two hostels have been completely empty, as in, I have a 12 person dorm entirely to myself. So i have been doing these tours alone, which is fine, but definitely kind of an ironic change considering that the most civilized place I've been has proven one of the most difficult to make friends.
I'm not too worried about it... i'll be in capetown in three days. I'm ready for it!
From there I moved west into SA's popular tourist scene, the Garden Route. I started at a place called Plettenberg Bay, where I hitched a ride with a Dutch couple to "Monkeyland" - think Sea World for monkeys with no cages. I left Plett early because it was pretty boring compared to the places I have been, and moved on to the next stop on the Garden Route, Knysna, where I am writing from now.
Yesterday i went to the Knysna Elephant Sanctuary and paid about 30 dollars to stand around taking pictures with elephants, but I'm not complaining because I got some amazing pictures. Today i went on a ferry to a nature reserve called Featherbed where we took a jeep ride up to the top then hiked 2.5 kms down then took the ferry back. it was fun except the other tour-goers were a 30 person 8th grade class from London and a bunch of toddlers. Things are getting pretty touristy here.
Surprisingly, this has also been one of the loneliest stretches of my trip thus far. My past two hostels have been completely empty, as in, I have a 12 person dorm entirely to myself. So i have been doing these tours alone, which is fine, but definitely kind of an ironic change considering that the most civilized place I've been has proven one of the most difficult to make friends.
I'm not too worried about it... i'll be in capetown in three days. I'm ready for it!
Friday, April 11, 2008
Pictures
Africa Album #1 is up (my first week in Africa)! Check it out at:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2150039&l=644fc&id=616632
Africa Album #2: Mozambique
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2150041&l=75411&id=616632
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2150039&l=644fc&id=616632
Africa Album #2: Mozambique
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2150041&l=75411&id=616632
Sunday, April 6, 2008
Coffee Bay
Wow,
Almost a full week without internet access... I almost couldn't take it. The African internet cafe lady just called me a computer nerd, and I think she may be right.
I finished my pony trek in Lesotho yesterday and it was incredible. Lesotho is gorgeous and the people are really nice. I opted for a 3-day, 2-night trek, we went all though a green mountain valley and swam in a waterfall. It was also one of my first opportunities to get a glimpse into rural (traditional) African life. I took a bunch of photos of the local children at the tribal village where I slept, and the concept of being able to see their own image on the camera completely confounded them. Besides never having seen a camera, few of these kids have even seen their own reflection in the mirror. I have been told many times that it is important not to give the kids money or candy, instead donate to a local charity or give them fruit, or something else that won't rot their teeth. I gave them pieces of bread with peanut butter, which made me feel like a very culturally responsible tourist.
I got a ride back to the capital of Lesotho with a 12-person Australian missionary group, then bought a traditional Basotho blanket on my way out the border, where the cab driver walked me all the way to the border and helped me find a ride to Bloemfontein. The woman was a South African nurse, trying to save money on petrol. Interesting enough, until she almost falls asleep at the wheel and decides she needs to take a 30 minute nap on the side of the road before continuing on. This was a fairly awkward (not to mention potentially dangerous) situation, but luckily we made it to the bus station just fine.
So last night I was at the bus station from for 5 hours waiting for the overnight bus from Bloemfontein to East London, a couple of people were harassing me so a German lady let me sleep in her dried fruit store. I bought a ton of it, thrilled that dried fruit is my perfect loophole in the rules of giving responsibly to the local kids.
I slept like a baby on the overnight bus thanks to my new Basotho blanket. When we arrived in East London, the driver took the entire Greyhound to the minibus taxi stand so I wouldn't walk across town alone at 7:30 in the morning. I guess that's when it really hit me, this place is not safe. Just the reactions of the locals on the bus made me realize that, although this seems in many ways like a first world country, the crime rate is incredibly high here - and I make a obvious target.
Anyways, after almost 24 hours of travel, I have arrived safely at my hostel in Coffee Bay, South Africa, and I got a free beer when I checked in so things are looking pretty good. This place even has internet, laundry service, and hot showers! I am living large.
Also- I have a South African cell with international texting so leave your number if you want some random, middle-of-the-night shoutouts...
Almost a full week without internet access... I almost couldn't take it. The African internet cafe lady just called me a computer nerd, and I think she may be right.
I finished my pony trek in Lesotho yesterday and it was incredible. Lesotho is gorgeous and the people are really nice. I opted for a 3-day, 2-night trek, we went all though a green mountain valley and swam in a waterfall. It was also one of my first opportunities to get a glimpse into rural (traditional) African life. I took a bunch of photos of the local children at the tribal village where I slept, and the concept of being able to see their own image on the camera completely confounded them. Besides never having seen a camera, few of these kids have even seen their own reflection in the mirror. I have been told many times that it is important not to give the kids money or candy, instead donate to a local charity or give them fruit, or something else that won't rot their teeth. I gave them pieces of bread with peanut butter, which made me feel like a very culturally responsible tourist.
I got a ride back to the capital of Lesotho with a 12-person Australian missionary group, then bought a traditional Basotho blanket on my way out the border, where the cab driver walked me all the way to the border and helped me find a ride to Bloemfontein. The woman was a South African nurse, trying to save money on petrol. Interesting enough, until she almost falls asleep at the wheel and decides she needs to take a 30 minute nap on the side of the road before continuing on. This was a fairly awkward (not to mention potentially dangerous) situation, but luckily we made it to the bus station just fine.
So last night I was at the bus station from for 5 hours waiting for the overnight bus from Bloemfontein to East London, a couple of people were harassing me so a German lady let me sleep in her dried fruit store. I bought a ton of it, thrilled that dried fruit is my perfect loophole in the rules of giving responsibly to the local kids.
I slept like a baby on the overnight bus thanks to my new Basotho blanket. When we arrived in East London, the driver took the entire Greyhound to the minibus taxi stand so I wouldn't walk across town alone at 7:30 in the morning. I guess that's when it really hit me, this place is not safe. Just the reactions of the locals on the bus made me realize that, although this seems in many ways like a first world country, the crime rate is incredibly high here - and I make a obvious target.
Anyways, after almost 24 hours of travel, I have arrived safely at my hostel in Coffee Bay, South Africa, and I got a free beer when I checked in so things are looking pretty good. This place even has internet, laundry service, and hot showers! I am living large.
Also- I have a South African cell with international texting so leave your number if you want some random, middle-of-the-night shoutouts...
Tuesday, April 1, 2008
Ruminations
Lucky me, I made it to the internet cafe two days in a row. Unfortunately the only reason I am here today is because things didn't work out with my SCUBA course so I will leave Vilanculos without doing any diving or completing my Open Water certification, which is a shame. Anyways, I have been meeting so many people from Africa, Europe, and the rest of the world and it has really opened up my eyes to a lot of interesting things.
First of all, it is incredible how much the world is following our presidential election. When people find out I am American, its the first thing they want to talk about. In particular, every international voice I have heard on my travels thus far desperately wants Obama to be our next president. It is interesting that although we consider him to have less international experience than Hillary, internationally, everyone seems to feel that having a black president would significantly change the way that America is seen by the world.
Secondly, EVERYBODY, and I mean everybody, has Facebook. It is seriously incredible. It entirely changes the nature of backpacking. I guess I never realized that Facebook had become such an international phenomenonon. Instead of exchanging emails, all you need is the person's name. I have rounded out my network of Facebook friends with everyone from South Africans to Brits to Israelis since I arrived. Its pretty scary to think that facebook is becoming a worldwide rolodex. New communications technology is completely revolutionizing the world, I tell you.
So enough on that. Tomorrow I am hopping a flight back to Joburg then a bus to Maseru, the capital of Lesotho, then another bus to Malealea, where I will takoe a pony trek through the country side for 3-4 day, staying overnight in tribal villages. It supposed to be unbelievable and I am happy to have the flexible itinerary to accomodate the change. I probably wont be posting for a bit, but when I do I'm sure I will have lots to relay.
First of all, it is incredible how much the world is following our presidential election. When people find out I am American, its the first thing they want to talk about. In particular, every international voice I have heard on my travels thus far desperately wants Obama to be our next president. It is interesting that although we consider him to have less international experience than Hillary, internationally, everyone seems to feel that having a black president would significantly change the way that America is seen by the world.
Secondly, EVERYBODY, and I mean everybody, has Facebook. It is seriously incredible. It entirely changes the nature of backpacking. I guess I never realized that Facebook had become such an international phenomenonon. Instead of exchanging emails, all you need is the person's name. I have rounded out my network of Facebook friends with everyone from South Africans to Brits to Israelis since I arrived. Its pretty scary to think that facebook is becoming a worldwide rolodex. New communications technology is completely revolutionizing the world, I tell you.
So enough on that. Tomorrow I am hopping a flight back to Joburg then a bus to Maseru, the capital of Lesotho, then another bus to Malealea, where I will takoe a pony trek through the country side for 3-4 day, staying overnight in tribal villages. It supposed to be unbelievable and I am happy to have the flexible itinerary to accomodate the change. I probably wont be posting for a bit, but when I do I'm sure I will have lots to relay.
Monday, March 31, 2008
Vilanculos
Here I am in Vilanculos, so far so good. I just saw my brother off at the airport because his spring break is over and he has to get back to classes in Capetown. I however, am on life vacation so the journey continues. Yesterday we went on a dhow (read "dinghy") trip out to the beautiful Bazaruto Islands, where we had a delicious lunch, found some incredible shells, and did some snorkeling. Today I am on my own again, just trying to figure out some logistics, then I will head off to the market to buy some bananas, avocados, and bread to hold me over for the next few days. I am changing my itinerary around, since the consensus is that Lesotho beats out Swaziland as the better Southern Africa nugget country. More soon....
Thursday, March 27, 2008
Beach Bummin in Tofo
Hi again,
I am sitting in an "internet cafe" in Praia de Tofo, Mozambique. It is about 100 degrees in here and I've already used up nearly a half hour just waiting for this page to load. I have a painting rolled up next to me that I just bought from the artist at the craft market on the beach. Mozambique has been amazing - so beautiful and relaxing. After I last wrote, my brother and I went to the fish market in Maputo, excited about getting some fresh tiger prawns grilled up for us. We ended up "splurging" on 2 kilos (4.4 lbs) of tiger prawns for about 200 rand, or 25 dollars. We were waiting more than an hour and starving by the time the plate of grilled prawns arrived. But the prawns were no bigger than my pinky finger. We tried to tell the lady that she had made a mistake, that these were not our prawns. Unfortunately, we soon found out that the lady at the fish market had taken us for a complete ride and scooped out 2 kgs of her smallest, shittiest prawns because we were unsuspecting white tourists. We were very let down but last night we got out justice when we tried it a second time at the local market here in Tofo and made sure to pick out each prawn one by one. This time we got 1 kg for 8 dollars and feasted like royalty. The seafood here is unbelievable, as are the fresh fruits and vegetables, art, and curios.
I am on Day 2 of my SCUBA course and the diving here is awesome. Yesterday we did our intro lessons in the bottom of a pool and took a dive to a nearby reef. Today I had to watch a bunch of DVDs about dive "philosophy" and tomorrow I have a quiz and two more dives, then David and I are catching the boat Northbound to the remote and beautiful Vilanculos (Bazarutos Archipelago) . I will be heading into Swaziland in about a week to see what that little nugget of a country is all about.
Stay tuned.
I am sitting in an "internet cafe" in Praia de Tofo, Mozambique. It is about 100 degrees in here and I've already used up nearly a half hour just waiting for this page to load. I have a painting rolled up next to me that I just bought from the artist at the craft market on the beach. Mozambique has been amazing - so beautiful and relaxing. After I last wrote, my brother and I went to the fish market in Maputo, excited about getting some fresh tiger prawns grilled up for us. We ended up "splurging" on 2 kilos (4.4 lbs) of tiger prawns for about 200 rand, or 25 dollars. We were waiting more than an hour and starving by the time the plate of grilled prawns arrived. But the prawns were no bigger than my pinky finger. We tried to tell the lady that she had made a mistake, that these were not our prawns. Unfortunately, we soon found out that the lady at the fish market had taken us for a complete ride and scooped out 2 kgs of her smallest, shittiest prawns because we were unsuspecting white tourists. We were very let down but last night we got out justice when we tried it a second time at the local market here in Tofo and made sure to pick out each prawn one by one. This time we got 1 kg for 8 dollars and feasted like royalty. The seafood here is unbelievable, as are the fresh fruits and vegetables, art, and curios.
I am on Day 2 of my SCUBA course and the diving here is awesome. Yesterday we did our intro lessons in the bottom of a pool and took a dive to a nearby reef. Today I had to watch a bunch of DVDs about dive "philosophy" and tomorrow I have a quiz and two more dives, then David and I are catching the boat Northbound to the remote and beautiful Vilanculos (Bazarutos Archipelago) . I will be heading into Swaziland in about a week to see what that little nugget of a country is all about.
Stay tuned.
Monday, March 24, 2008
Hi from Africa
Hello! I am writing from an internet cafe in Maputo, the capital of Mozambique. Today marks exactly 1 week since I arrived in Africa and I can fairly say that things have been crazy - and amazing. My first attempt to take the African busliner from Joburg to Nelspruit ended up in a 2 hour delay and a 3 hour breakdown on the side of the road, in total my trip took 9.5 hours rather than the expected 4.5. Frustrating as it was, it gave me the opportunity to meet a bunch of locals. I have expected people to treat me negatively because I am an american, but on the contrary, people are really excited to see me and everyone wants to talk to me. When the bus broke down and people found out I was an American, it was like I was a celebrity.
Anyways, once I actually got to Nelspruit, things were amazing. After much stress, everything worked out: I met a Harvard medical student doing research here who was traveling for the weekend and the two of us went up on a tour of the Blyde River Canyon. He dropped me off in Graskop, where I met a group of awesome Portuguese kids and together we went hiking then we took the bus back to Maputo, where they are working, and where I am meeting my brother. The bus driver threatened to leave me behind at the border of Mozambique because I didnt have my visa, so my new portuguese friends and I sprinted through the visa office and thanks to their language skills, I made it back on the bus in time. That was a crazy adventure.
So I arrived in Maputo last night, David and I met up at the hostel and partied with some awesome South Africans. Tomorrow we are going to Tofo where I will begin my SCUBA course.
That's all for now. Bye!
Anyways, once I actually got to Nelspruit, things were amazing. After much stress, everything worked out: I met a Harvard medical student doing research here who was traveling for the weekend and the two of us went up on a tour of the Blyde River Canyon. He dropped me off in Graskop, where I met a group of awesome Portuguese kids and together we went hiking then we took the bus back to Maputo, where they are working, and where I am meeting my brother. The bus driver threatened to leave me behind at the border of Mozambique because I didnt have my visa, so my new portuguese friends and I sprinted through the visa office and thanks to their language skills, I made it back on the bus in time. That was a crazy adventure.
So I arrived in Maputo last night, David and I met up at the hostel and partied with some awesome South Africans. Tomorrow we are going to Tofo where I will begin my SCUBA course.
That's all for now. Bye!
Sunday, March 9, 2008
Backpacking in Africa
Hey all,
This post marks the closing of the current chapter of the quest and the dawning of a new one. On Friday March 14, 5 days from now, I will be taking the GMAT, for which I have been studying since January. Then, on Monday the 17th, two days after my exam, I will be departing for Africa to commence a period of travel that will (tentatively) last through the beginning of June.
Those of you who have been with me since the beginning will know that travel was always a big part of what I wanted to do during this vision quest. But, you may ask, why Africa? The short answer is that it just kind of happened that way. My brother is studying abroad for the semester in Capetown, and my parents offered to pay for my flight down there to visit him. And its a hell of a lot cheaper and less exploited than Europe. Now that I've done my homework, however, there's nowhere else I would rather go. Southern Africa is teeming with incredible sites and natural wonders. I am so unbelievably excited.
To give you a rough outline of my route: I am flying into Johannesburg (19 hours, straight from DC...), then after sleeping off my jetlag, I am meeting my brother in Maputo, the capital of Mozambique, where we will spend a week traveling together over his spring break. After ending its nearly century-long civil war about a decade ago, Mozambique has become one of the most sought-after travel destinations for its pristine beaches and world-class SCUBA diving. While I am there, I plan to get my SCUBA certification so I can take full advantage of it! From there, I will travel west around the cape of Africa before arriving back in Capetown, where I will meet back up with my brother. The second leg of the trip involves traveling north from Capetown into the deserts of Namibia, east along the northern coast of Botswana (to see the amazing Okavango Delta), then to Victoria Falls, Lake Malawi, and finally, Zanzibar.
Pretty unbelievable, right?
Should make for some pretty good reading, so I hope you will all follow along.
Pray for my safe travels!
This post marks the closing of the current chapter of the quest and the dawning of a new one. On Friday March 14, 5 days from now, I will be taking the GMAT, for which I have been studying since January. Then, on Monday the 17th, two days after my exam, I will be departing for Africa to commence a period of travel that will (tentatively) last through the beginning of June.
Those of you who have been with me since the beginning will know that travel was always a big part of what I wanted to do during this vision quest. But, you may ask, why Africa? The short answer is that it just kind of happened that way. My brother is studying abroad for the semester in Capetown, and my parents offered to pay for my flight down there to visit him. And its a hell of a lot cheaper and less exploited than Europe. Now that I've done my homework, however, there's nowhere else I would rather go. Southern Africa is teeming with incredible sites and natural wonders. I am so unbelievably excited.
To give you a rough outline of my route: I am flying into Johannesburg (19 hours, straight from DC...), then after sleeping off my jetlag, I am meeting my brother in Maputo, the capital of Mozambique, where we will spend a week traveling together over his spring break. After ending its nearly century-long civil war about a decade ago, Mozambique has become one of the most sought-after travel destinations for its pristine beaches and world-class SCUBA diving. While I am there, I plan to get my SCUBA certification so I can take full advantage of it! From there, I will travel west around the cape of Africa before arriving back in Capetown, where I will meet back up with my brother. The second leg of the trip involves traveling north from Capetown into the deserts of Namibia, east along the northern coast of Botswana (to see the amazing Okavango Delta), then to Victoria Falls, Lake Malawi, and finally, Zanzibar.
Pretty unbelievable, right?
Should make for some pretty good reading, so I hope you will all follow along.
Pray for my safe travels!
Tuesday, February 5, 2008
Thursday, January 3, 2008
I had a dream...
That I was at a political party meeting and I was speaking out against the leader. On my way out, I passed through a metal detector like the kind they have at the airport. I made it through and was walking away when the security guard came over to me and told me that when I passed through the metal detector, it had detected abnormal brain cells that most likely meant that I had a brain tumor. I wondered if this was a tactic that the party was using to sabotage me for speaking out at the meeting. I went home and told my family what had happened, and that I should probably get a CAT scan to make sure everything was okay. My dad urged me to go in for surgery instead, telling me that the CAT scan machine is really scary and its easier just to do the surgery. They even told me my cousin would go in with me so I wouldn't be nervous. So I went in for surgery to check out my brain, and when I woke up, I realized that the party and my family had tricked me into getting a lobotomy so I would no longer speak out against the system....
Hello! So I know its been a while (1.5 months) since my last post, but I'm back with a vengeance. I have so much to update on and I promise that after this entry, my posts will be much shorter and more frequent. Life has been a roller coaster ride but things are finally falling into place. Let me start from the beginning:
I moved back to Seattle the week before Thanksgiving. There were a few reasons for my decision, including my general distaste for LA, but primarily my motives were financial. Attempting to start a new business while paying over $2000 per month for rent and gas quickly became more than my bank account could bear. As much as I felt an outward stigma of moving back home with my parents, the truth of the matter is - I love it. Lame, I know, but true. Pillow top mattress, souped-up cable package, and, best of all, practically zero expenses. And my parents, of course. They are cool. And the snow on the mountains around Seattle makes for some killer skiing.
Since I moved back I have started studying for the GMAT in (distant) preparation for applying to business school. If my recent endeavors in entrepreneurialism have taught me anything, its how much I DON'T know. If I could, I would go to business school right away, but apparently its virtually impossible to be accepted to any of the top programs without at least 3 years of real world work experience. Fair enough.
In the meantime, I have been working at a swanky restaurant, bar & lounge called Twist, down in Seattle's Belltown area, near the Pike Place Market. It has been a great way for me to meet new people while also making a nice sum of extra cash! Because my expenses living at home have been so low, nearly everything that I make goes toward Saxie Beach or (god willing) to some traveling a couple of months down the road.
Most importantly, I have not given up on Saxie Beach! It has definitely been a challenge to keep things going in LA while I am up here in Seattle, but things are coming together slowly but surely. My website is in the works, and a 24-piece sample collection of the entire Spring/Summer 2008 line is being sewn in Los Angeles. With some luck, I should have a professional photoshoot with all of the new pieces completed by the end of January. I have also been talking to a couple of different showrooms in LA and New York about picking up my line. Very exciting!
I realized while in LA that when I am working on my bikini company as a complement to other things going on in my life, it is refreshing, invigorating, and fun. When I was in LA it was my entire life - I lived it and breathed it so intensely that I could hardly separate the business from myself. Being back in Seattle has helped me find a better balance and a more detached perspective on whatever happens with it.
So this has been the past month and a half in a very very abbreviated nutshell. More updates to come!
I moved back to Seattle the week before Thanksgiving. There were a few reasons for my decision, including my general distaste for LA, but primarily my motives were financial. Attempting to start a new business while paying over $2000 per month for rent and gas quickly became more than my bank account could bear. As much as I felt an outward stigma of moving back home with my parents, the truth of the matter is - I love it. Lame, I know, but true. Pillow top mattress, souped-up cable package, and, best of all, practically zero expenses. And my parents, of course. They are cool. And the snow on the mountains around Seattle makes for some killer skiing.
Since I moved back I have started studying for the GMAT in (distant) preparation for applying to business school. If my recent endeavors in entrepreneurialism have taught me anything, its how much I DON'T know. If I could, I would go to business school right away, but apparently its virtually impossible to be accepted to any of the top programs without at least 3 years of real world work experience. Fair enough.
In the meantime, I have been working at a swanky restaurant, bar & lounge called Twist, down in Seattle's Belltown area, near the Pike Place Market. It has been a great way for me to meet new people while also making a nice sum of extra cash! Because my expenses living at home have been so low, nearly everything that I make goes toward Saxie Beach or (god willing) to some traveling a couple of months down the road.
Most importantly, I have not given up on Saxie Beach! It has definitely been a challenge to keep things going in LA while I am up here in Seattle, but things are coming together slowly but surely. My website is in the works, and a 24-piece sample collection of the entire Spring/Summer 2008 line is being sewn in Los Angeles. With some luck, I should have a professional photoshoot with all of the new pieces completed by the end of January. I have also been talking to a couple of different showrooms in LA and New York about picking up my line. Very exciting!
I realized while in LA that when I am working on my bikini company as a complement to other things going on in my life, it is refreshing, invigorating, and fun. When I was in LA it was my entire life - I lived it and breathed it so intensely that I could hardly separate the business from myself. Being back in Seattle has helped me find a better balance and a more detached perspective on whatever happens with it.
So this has been the past month and a half in a very very abbreviated nutshell. More updates to come!
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